Monday, May 17, 2010

voila

My lovelies, I apologize for the hiatus. In addition to my camera dying (argh camera problems), the weeks following our tour de Brussels have been passing maniacally fast and there's been so much to do in so little time! I'm afraid you have been neglected but I'm back on track and ready to roll out the good times starting with our field trip to St. Paul's at the end of April, through our holiday in Brussels and Bruges, Belgium.

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St. Paul's Cathedral is beautiful, inside and out, and pretty emblematic of London's cityscape. Part of the reason it avoided complete destruction in the World Wars was because enemy air fleets recognized its use as a compass to locate different areas of the city. The Cathedral's dome was damaged, as well as all of the medieval glass blown out, but it still remains the second largest Cathedral dome in Europe after St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. We were able to climb over 200 stairs into the dome, which has an amazing whisper effect (a person can talk against the wall and by the magic of science, the sound is carried 360 degrees around the dome's edge - what a way to gossip!). Then we made it to the top where there is a great view of the city. You can see why the dome's prominence and central location made it such a great "compass."



View of green where Jenny and I had lunch!

The Thames,Millenium Bridge and ant people.

One of the Cathedral's towers and if you look hard, the London Eye and Southbank.


Now for Brussels! I spoke a little about our first day in my previous post but these are the pictures to go along. This is Grote Markt, or Grand Place (like everything in Brussels, it has two names - one Flemish, the other French). There restaurants and vendors here, as well as the Town Hall. Many of the buildings are old guild buildings, the most extravagant being the one on the left, belonging to probably the merchant guild. This area has a mix of architecture, especially since a lot of the building were rebuilt in the 17th century I think and because Spain once owned Brussels and the King built a palace here that he never used.



This enigmatic statue is Mannekin Pis, and is the symbol of the city's quirkiness. No one knows who first created him, because the statue is not the original but is recast every few decades. The first documented casting of a Mannekin Pis statue is from like the late 1500s, but it's possible he's been in Brussels longer. Unfotunately, the story behind his creation has also been lost to time. Now, locals and tourists alike create their own folk tales about him (my favorite is about a father who loses his son and promises to make a statue to him, based on whatever he is doing when he's found). The local historical society supposedly dresses him up everyday based on the holiday or time of year, but we only ever saw him in this sailor hat.

Chocolate, of course, is also a national export and here you can see further evidence of Brussels obsession with the peeing statue.


Belgian waffles in Belgium. Classic. These are the EXTREME touristy kind. I don't know that locals would ever want to eat these.

Our second day in Brussels, we went on a bike tour of the city. Our tour guide stands in front of a mural of Tin Tin, a very famous cartoon that came out of Belgium. These murals are everywhere, from run down neighborhoods to richer, touristy areas. Because the city is so small, the poor and the wealthy often rub shoulders, with the walls of one building literally touching the walls of another, yet having a 1000 euro disparity between their rents.

This was a gaudy prison built after Belgium obtained the Congo and became rich. It no longer serves as a prison or much of anything really these days, but there is talk that it could be used as a museum and arts complex.

View of the city + lovely blue sky!

Garden. I don't remember where. The statues are supposed to be important historical figures.

Statue of a "shemale" duck, located outside of a very high end shopping area. I don't get it.

Brussels is also the capital of the EU. That's lady Europa, a goddess of the Earth I think, the euro, and the flags of all the countries that make up the union.

The business-y EU district. Shiny!

Cool monument in a park somewhere. Those ominous clouds look gorgeous right now, but the basically ruin the rest of our trip in the days ahead.

The city Royal Palace, where the prince of Belgium lives (the king lives in the countryside). Next door is the BelVUE, a pretty neat history museum, preserving the history of Brussels and Belgium in general.

Ummm...important cathedral? The statue in front is also important for reasons I've forgotten.

Random park sculptures. Brussels is weird.

This is the Atomium. It has nine orbs, each containing three floors of exhibits, restaurants, relics of the Belgian World's Fair, etc., to represent an atom of iron magnified 165 billion times. At the time, it was built without the aid of computers (!!!) and was meant to stand for the nine districts of Brussels. But when it was finished, there were only a eight districts and now there are only five, so it hasn't been as symbolic as it hoped it would be. Still pretty cool though.

Random. From a distance, I thought this was the King's Palace, which we hiked through a park's forest to get to, but it's just a pavillion. A beautiful structure nonetheless. Also, check out that plane trail.

The King's Palace! The Royal Gardens and estate are only open to the public three weeks out of the year, so it's amazing that we got to be here for it. So, of course, the moment after I take this picture, my camera dies. The next three days in Belgium are, for all you know, a lie but I'll try my best to describe them.

Here are somethings ripped off of Jenny from the gardens and from Bruges.

The King decided his royal gardens needed a Japanese pagoda so...

The Museum of Musical Instruments! To escape the rain on day three, we visited some museums, first the Bozar to look at Flemish art, then checking out these groovy musical inventions. They gave you headphones that picked up radio signals near different exhibits so that you could hear what the instrument actually sound like when played. I'm jamming to the funky accordion beats.

Jenny and I thought this player trumpet quartet (like a self-playing piano but with trumpets) was fantastic.

Jenny and I hamm and get a great view of the city in the museum complex.


Beurs, or Bourse, the old stock exchange building. Locals use it as a meeting point, and we ate a few of our dinners on these steps.

Chocolate dragon needs no caption. OMG, we ate so much chocolate.
Not included in these pictures, unfortunately, is our night out to Celtica, a ridiculous tourist bar where we actually saw the hen party (British slang for bachelorette party) that was travelling on our train. Jenny tried some Belgian beer, and Mollie and I jammed to the live entertainment - a really old, snarky man singing Bob Dylan.

On the fourth day, we took a day-trip out to Bruges, a gorgeous small town in the Belgium countryside, about an hour by train outside of Brussels. As you can tell, it's very cold, very grey, and rather rainy. Our first stop was to the city walls to see the so called traitor's skull at Smedenpoort (he opened the gate's to the enemy in 1688), but we couldn't find it. This is Burg, I think, a square nicknamed "The Govenor's Carwash" by locals because of the architecture.

This is Markt, the main square. Storm clouds = :( We spent most of our time in this area, eating or drinking chocolate.

We also visited two churches: the Church of Our Lady that has a Madonna with Child statue by Michelangelo and the Holy Blood, where we attempted to see the relic of the same name but failed.

Sint-Janhaus-Mill Windmills! One of the higher points in Bruges. Good panorama, really, really fierce wind.

The last day! We spent our last shebang eating (what else) waffles and chocolate. I got to visit The Museum of Costumes and Lace, which featured an exhibit on 1960s fashion - so wonderful! I gathered so much inspiration from the bright colors, prints and funky hats. There was even an original Skipper doll (of the Barbie variety), which premiered in the sixties. For good luck, Jenny and I rub this statue in Grand Place. We listened to a tour guide explain the story in French, but we could only gather that it was really important to touch her from head to foot. 

It gets super crowded with tourists, hence Jenny's flurry.

I hope you have lived vicariously through me! Kisses!

Friday, April 30, 2010

alo, bruxelles!

Posts this week have fallen off due to paper writing, intense sightseeing at St. Paul's and the National Theater, and a frantic bit of midterm break planning, but Mollie, Jenny and I have somewhat successfully settled in at our hostel in the heart of Brussels, the capital of Belgium and center of the EU. Right now, we're hanging in the lounge area of hostel, exhausted from walking about and mesmerized by the creepy, possibly nude shadow dancers on the television (think the iPod commercials but with topless sillouettes).

While I knew that travelling in a country where the official language is Dutch would be difficult, I was absolutely unprepared for the Brussels MIDI train station. With tram ticket machines that would only take coins and EU credit cards, and the ATM per capita ratio at -4, we were agitated to say the least. To make matters even more outrageous, we couldn't find anyone who seemed to know how to navigate the complex. There was a really foxy guy from Nottingham, but Mollie shook him off before we learned his name. Two hours later, we finally discover a ticket booth with humans in charge and jump on the tram.

For this reason, and more credit card/ATM issues checking in, we don't actually hit the town until about 5:30 but we get to see a great deal of it, including the entire north end (and an unfortunate cross through the red light district) and part of the city center. There, we ate dinner in Grand Place, grabbed wafels, and attempted to interpret the enigmatic Mannekin Pis fountain - details/pictures next week. I'm looking forward to a more fun weekend and can't wait to tell you all about it back in London. All my love!

Monday, April 26, 2010

ou est la fete?

Uhhhhhh...I feel like a mass of blubber, blubbing around. In my tiny room. Trying to catch up on Project Runway on YouTube. Even though someone's stupid video title gave away the end. Stupid Seth Aaron. He's like Jeffrey, but three times less talented. And oh my gah, Maya just left the show. AND OH MY GAH, Anthony's back! And they're designing for Heidi again - Heidi, c'mon, get out of the workroom and grab some other celebs on your show to design for!

The blubbery feelings are not my fault. I blame food and bad luck. The reason I blame food is because I have been eating a lot of it. Saturday, Jenny, Mollie and I met up with Mollie's friend Erin from Wyoming at the London Bridge Tube station to visit Borough Market. It's best described as the sheer breadth and absurdity of Harrod's but for food. There were at least 70 stalls run by different foodies, purveying the best chilli salsa or the best expensive cheese that you've never heard of or the best mushroom pate - the best smells, sights (both of the edibles and of the guys in charge), best tastes. So many samples!


Huge soup vats.

Les fleurs.

Best item there: owl-shaped shortbread biscuits.

Giant, expensive, rare cheese wheel anyone?

Puddings galore.

Baaaaklaaavaaaaa *drool*

I ate a lot of crazy things - fruit pates, baklava, diabetic-friendly granola, sweet potato spread, and the oddest, most expensive sample, an extremely strong olive oil made with black truffles. Greek lamb kofta sandwich for lunch rounded off my journey through food land and, with the help of an afternoon in bed dreaming about eating chocolate in Brussels, began my blubbery, whale feelings of laziness.

The reason I blame bad luck is because all my wonderful St. George's plans (well, nearly all) were mostly for naught. The day began very, very early; at 7:30am, Lizzie, Dan, Jenny and I set off from the hostel to stand in line at the box office for Jerusalem tickets (Jerusalem takes place on St. George's day - as you can see, very specific planning going on here). Well, when we get there - two hours before the box office opens, a whole hour earlier than Jenny and I stood in line for Waiting for Godot! - and there are already over 30 people there, the first ten of which have been camping out since 7pm the night before. That's before even that night's show began! Ridick. So, of course, we concede the unfortunate two hours of waiting and walk back home. Instead, I book tickets to see a different show, Stuff, written for a fringe, new plays festival. It was both interesting and difficult in plot and in what it tried to accomplish, but enjoyable as one new playwright appreciating the hard work of another. My second plan was to see the St. George's Day pageant, but due to the complicated process of buying tickets online and tube changes, Jenny and I missed the affair by twenty minutes :( Instead, we ate lunch in front of the beautiful St. Paul's Cathedral, which we are visiting Tuesday.

The Cathedral + the tree blocking the Cathedral.


I got to rub Jenny in front of St. Paul's - with sunscreen, that is. Sweet bird in the background!

I want to grow up and be that woman's hair.

My final plan was to head out to Hampstead Heath and visit the poet John Keats' house.


It has a lot of interesting artifacts and in celebration of Shakespeare's birthday, a poetry reading based on the Seven Ages of Man speech from As You Like It. Unfortunately, I had to make the trip on my own and got terribly lost for an hour and a half, but I bought some chocolate to make myself feel better and visited a boutique where I held an over 300 GBP Vivenne Westwood dress (chocolate and window shopping are my drugs of choice apparently). Finally, I made it to Keats' house and as a token, got a snap shot of Keats death mask, totally weird and fantastic.


Today, I had lunch with Will and his mother, who is to take care of Willy's illness. I hope that he feels better soon because I am bored and blubbery without him. Send him love and me entertaining comments. Bon journee!